Showing posts with label pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pattern. Show all posts

12 December 2008

Morsmordre

So! New pattern! This object has existed for quite some time, but I'm trying to get the pattern up so that someone at knitting circle can make it.




Dark Mark Armwarmer

This is a gauntlet with the Dark Mark (a symbol of evil from the Harry Potter series) shadow-knit on the inside. It's the left arm only, as that is the appropriate placement for the Mark. If you want to make a (plain) right arm, you're welcome to, but you're on your own for switching the thumb around to the other side. I might make a match for it in the future, but not any time soon.

Gauge: 6 sts / 9 rows per inch in stockinette

U.S. 4 dpns
worsted weight yarn – 2 colors (I used Wool-Ease.)
MC – Black CC – Green

The chart, which covers the inside of the arm (the part that's shadow-knit) can be found here.

w/ MC, CO 56 sts, join in round.
work 6 rnds in 2x2 rib

Next: (k2, p2) 4x, work next 26 sts of chart, (p2, k2) 3x, p2.
work entire chart in this manner

Thumb Gusset:
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 23, m1, k1, m1, (p2, k2) 3x, p2 (58 sts total)
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 28 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x k 23, m1, k3, m1, (p2, k2) 3x, p2 (60 sts)
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x p 23, k 7 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 23, m1, k5, m1, (p2, k2) 3x, p2 (62 sts)
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 32 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x k 23, m1, k7, m1 (p2, k2) 3x, p2 (64 sts)
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x p 23, k 11 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 23, m1, k9, m1 (p2, k2) 3x, p2 (66 sts)
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 36 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x k 23, m1, k11, m1 (p2, k2) 3x, p2 (68 sts)
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x p 23, k 15 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 23, m1, k13, m1 (p2, k2) 3x, p2 (70 sts)
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 40 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x k 23, m1, k15, m1 (p2, k2) 3x, p2 (72 sts)
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x p 23, k 19 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 23, place next 19 sts on holder, CO 1 st (p2, k2) 3x, p2 (54 sts)
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 24 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x k 24 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x p 24 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 24 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (CC) (k2, p2) 4x k 24 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x k 24 (p2, k2) 3x, p2
next: (MC) (k2, p2) 4x p 24 (p2, k2) 3x, p2

work 4 rnds in foll rib:
(k2, p2) 9x, k2, p1, k1, (p2, k2) 3x, p2
BO all sts

Thumb: place 19 sts onto dpns, pick up 1 st in gap (20 sts)
knit 3 rnds even
2x2 rib – 3 rnds, BO all

Weave in ends; summon Voldemort.

06 November 2008

Two-Tone Cables & Ribs






New hat pattern, fresh off the reverse-engineering track. Don't worry; the copyright (OH NO! I just said copyright!) is mine. I made it about two years ago, and winged the pattern. Worked out well, and is one of my favorite hats. I'll get back to you on gauge when I feel like taking out my measuring tape. I poked around on Ravelry to find approximately what size needles might use 72 sts to get an adult size hat and I might also have owned a 16" circular for at the time. My best guess is US 10.5. I probably did the decreases on 9s or 10s. (Didn't have 10.5 dpns.) Not that it probably concerns you, since this about the pattern and not the yarn, after all, but the third picture, while it doesn't show the pattern detail well, is the best depiction of the hat's color.


MATERIALS
- 16" circular, most likely US 10.5
- dpns in a similar size (anywhere from 9-11 should be fine)
- 2 skeins (different colors) Patons Shetland Chunky, which in case you didn't notice, is only 25% wool. I did not notice this when I purchased it. It's soft, though. The cream (CC) is called "Biscuit" the blue (MC) had the word "Sea" in the name.
- cable needle is helpful
- aaaaaand get out that tapestry needle

GAUGE
will appear in this space later

CABLES
C2F: place next 2 sts on cable needle and let rest at front of work. K2 from left needle. K2 from cable needle.
C2Fd: place next 2 sts on cable needle and let rest at front of work. K2tog from left needle. K2 from cable needle.

PATTERN
With CC, CO 72 sts.
Joining in round, work foll 2 rnds 10x:
Rnd 1: *k4, p1, k3, p1*
Rnd 2: *k1, p2, k1, p1, k3, p1*

Change to MC,
Next rnd: *k4, p1, k3, p1*

Work foll 4 rnds 5x:
Row 1: *k4, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*
Row 2: *k4, p1, k3, p1*
Row 3: *k4, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*
Row 4: *C2F, p1, k3, p1*

Decreasing for crown
Row 1: *k4, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*
Row 2: *k4, p1, sl1, k2tog, psso, p1* (56 sts)
Row 3: *k4, p1, k1, p1*
Row 4: *C2Fd, p1, k1, p1* (48 sts)
Row 5: *k3, p1, k1, p1*
Row 6: *k1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1* (40 sts)
Row 7: *k1, p1, k1, p1*
Row 8: *k2tog, p1, k1, p1* (32 sts)
Row 9: *k1, p2tog, p1* (24 sts)
Row 10: *k2tog, p1* (16 sts)
Row 11: *k2tog* (8 sts)

Cut yarn, thread through rem. 8 sts and pull tight. Weave in ends. Adorn head.

21 September 2008

Bumazhnik (boo-mahzh'-neek)





This cute little cabled бумажник (wallet, in Russian) was designed specifically with women in mind, though people of all genders are welcome to find use for it. Just big enough to hug an ID and a couple of bucks and knit at a small, tight gauge for a slim fit, this is the perfect sort of thing to conceal on one’s person (i.e. stash in one’s bra) as they head out to a club, or to any location where a person needs some cash, but might not feel like taking a purse. However, it works perfectly well in a bag or pocket, keeping the essentials together. It can even fit a key (without a keyring attached)!

Materials:
US size 00 (1.75 mm) needles (2)
cable needle (I used a third US 00)
sock yarn (not much)
tapestry needle

Instructions:
CO 44 sts
First row: purl across.

Next:
Work as follows, using the chart:
RS rows: k13, chart, k13
WS rows: p13, chart, p13


Chart:

8 (WS) - - VV - - VVVVVV - - VV - -
7 (RS) - - VV - - VVVVVV - - VV - -
6 (WS) - - VV - - VVVVVV - - VV - -
5 (RS) - - VV - - VVVVVV - - VV - -
4 (WS) - - VV - - VVVVVV - - VV - -
3 (RS) - - VV - - CABLE - - VV - -
2 (WS) - - VV - - VVVVVV - - VV - -
1 (RS) - - VV - - VVVVVV - - VV - -

Key:
V = knit on RS, purl on WS
- = purl on RS, knit on WS
CABLE = put first 3 sts on cable needle, let rest at back of work, knit 3 sts, k 3 sts from cable needle

Repeat the chart a total of 6 times, and work the first two rows again, ending before the row that would contain the 7th cable twist.

Next row: k13, p2, k2, p1, k2tog, k2. Turn work
Next row: p2, p2tog. Turn work.
Next row: k3.

Repeat these last two rows until all sts on the right side of the panel have been incorporated into the edge (16 more rows). Break yarn, leaving a tail to weave in later. Place these three sts on cable needle or stitch holder or spare yarn or another dpn.

Left half of the panel:
Next row: k2, ssk. Turn
Next row: p3. Turn.

Repeat these two rows until only three sts are left.



Finishing:

Using tapestry needle and mattress stitch, fold the rectangle lengthwise and sew a seam up the back (I used a one stitch seam allowance on each side). (At this point you can test it to make sure your contents will fit. It might appear to be really narrow, but it should stretch quite a bit. It’s meant to be a tight fit.) Centering cable on the front and evenly dividing stitches between front and back, sew a seam along the bottom, however you see fit. I picked up stitches from around the first row and used kitchener stitch. Finally, use kitchener stitch to connect the 3 stitch cables around the top edge. Weave in ends. Employ in daily life.

14 November 2007

35 mm





Fresh from the Knitty rejection pile! (It's okay Knitty, I still love you. Let's hang out sometime?)

35mm Hat

Growing up in Minnesota, I know the value of warm winter accessories. Unfortunately, I see so many people covering their heads with boring, machine-knit hats that I sometimes get the desire to make hats for people I hardly know. Since handing out new hats to my acquaintances might come across as strange, perhaps I’ll settle on giving them to my friends and family.

This hat was designed for my older brother, Colin. He has a strong interest in television and movies, so I thought a filmstrip image would suit his taste. Since the hat is double-knit, it not only provides two layers of warmth on cold, windy days, but it is reversible, too!

SIZE
to fit an average or large adult head

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Circumference, unstretched: 19 inches
Will comfortably fit up to 25 inches

MATERIALS
[MC] Nature Spun [100% wool; 245 yd/224 m per 100g skein]; color: Charcoal; 1 skein
[CC] Nature Spun [100% wool; 245 yd/224 m per 100g skein]; color: Pepper; 1 skein

Alternate color scheme:
[MC] Patons Classic Wool Merino [100% wool; 223 yds/204 m per 100g skein]; color: Chestnut Brown; 1 skein
[CC] Ella Rae Classic [100% wool; 219 yds/200 m per 100g skein]; color: #103; 1 skein

1 set US #8/5 mm double-point needles
1 16-inch US #8/5 mm circular needle

stitch marker
tapestry needle
cable needle (optional)

GAUGE
17 sts/25 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES
Construction Overview:
The number of stitches in the cast-on row is the stitch circumference of the outer layer of the hat. By knitting into the front and back of each stitch in the first knit row, the stitch count is doubled, which creates the inner layer of the hat. Both layers are knit simultaneously, with outer- and inner-layer stitches alternating around the needle. (Here’s a wonderful video that explains double knitting (scroll down).) Then, for each decrease, four stitches must be regarranged so that two outer stitches are next to each other, followed by two inner stitches.

Note: When double-knitting in stockinette stitch, you knit the outer-layer stitches and purl the inner layer stitches. However, both strands of yarn must travel together. That means, if you’re knitting with the MC, the CC needs to be at the back of the work with the MC, even though you’re not using the CC for that knit stitch. On the next stitch, when you purl with the CC, bring both strands to the front of the work, and purl with just the CC. (This is very important; it allows for the two layers to stay separate.)

Methods: To create the filmstrip, you will use these four color sequences.
Method 1 [solid MC outer row]: (k1 MC, p1 CC)
Method 2 [solid CC outer row]: (k1 CC, p1 MC)
Method 3 [alternating MC/CC outer row]: (k1 MC, p1 CC, k1 CC, p1 MC)
Method 4 [6 sts MC/2 sts CC outer row]: (k1 MC, p1 CC) 6x, (k1 CC, p1 MC) 2x


Dec 2 (decrease two): When rearranging stitches for decreases (which occur in pairs), it may be helpful to use a cable needle. Here’s how you should work each dec 2:
Sl 1 (MC) to right needle, sl 1 (CC) to cable needle, sl 1 st to right needle, return (CC) st on cable needle to left needle, return 2 (MC) sts on right needle to left needle. K2 tog MC, p2 tog CC.

PATTERN
Hat is worked from the bottom up. As you decrease for the crown, switch to dpns whenever you feel the circular needle becomes awkward to use.

Using MC and circular needle, CO 88 sts. Place marker and attach CC. The rest of the pattern is worked in the round.

Rnd 1: (K into front of st w/MC, k into back of st w/CC) around. 176 sts.
Rnds 2-6: Rep Method 1 around.
Rnd 7: Rep Method 2 around.
Rnds 8-9: Rep Method 3 around.
Rnd 10: Rep Method 2 around.
Rnds 11-17: Rep Method 4 around.
Rnd 18: Rep Method 2 around.
Rnds 19-20: Rep Method 3 around.
Rnd 21: Rep Method 1 around.
Rnd 22: K1 CC, p1 MC, rep Method 1 around.
Rnds 23-39: Rep Method 1 around.

At this point, the hat should measure approx 6 inches in length.

Begin dec for crown, cont in Method 1 for rest of hat:
Rnd 40: (Work 18 sts, dec 2) around. 160 sts.
Rnd 41 and future odd rows: work Method 1 around.
Rnd 42: (Work 16 sts, dec 2) around. 144 sts.
Rnd 44: (Work 14 sts, dec 2) around. 128 sts.
Rnd 46: (Work 12 sts, dec 2) around. 112 sts.
Rnd 48: (Work 10 sts, dec 2) around. 96 sts.
Rnd 50: (Work 8 sts, dec 2) around. 80 sts.
Rnd 52: (Work 6 sts, dec 2) around. 64 sts.
Rnd 54: (Work 4 sts, dec 2) around. 48 sts.
Rnd 56: (Work 2 sts, dec 2) around. 32 sts.
Rnd 58: (Dec 2) around. 16 sts.
Rnd 60: (Dec 2) around. 8 sts.


FINISHING
Cut MC and CC, leaving 6 inch tails. Using a tapestry needle, thread CC through rem 4 CC sts, weave in end on inside layer of hat. Then, use tapestry needle to thread MC tail through rem 4 MC sts, weave in end on outside layer of hat. Weave in the ends at the cast-on edge and put it on your (or someone else’s) head!

Here's my dad wearing the hat I made for my brother:

08 December 2006

Biokniticry































Robots are pretty cool. Even this one, which is
stuffed with polyfill rather than mechanical
implements, is neat. I made it in the late spring/early summer of this year, but I can drag
my feet when it comes to posting. Here is the pattern:


Robot

Materials:
yarn – 85g grey
20g black
small amounts of red, yellow, blue

(I used 1 skein of Wool-ease in Grey Heather for the grey, and leftover Red Heart for the rest.)
needles – dpns – US sizes 4 & 6
stuffing
yarn needle
small stitch holder (be it metal or yarn in a contrasting color)
pipe cleaners – at least one – a dozen or so would be better
“knitting knobby” (i-cord making tool) (optional)

Body
using size 6 dpns and grey:
CO 20 sts
work 15 rows stockinette st
next row: CO 20 sts, p 40
next row: CO 20 sts, k 60
work 4 rows stockinette st

(begin button design, using intarsia)
row 1: k22 sts, knit design row, k22 sts
row 2: p22 sts, purl design row, p22 sts
alternate these rows until the end of the design, ending on a knit row

beginning w/ a purl row, work 24 rows stockinette st
next row: BO 20 sts, p 40
next row: BO 20 sts, k 20
beginning w/ a purl row, work 14 rows stockinette st
next row: BO 20 sts
cut yarn, leaving long tail for seaming

Legs (make 2)
using size 6 dpns and grey:
CO 7 sts
work 9 rows stockinette st
next row: CO 12 sts, p 19 (total sts – 19)
next row: CO 13 sts, k 32 (32 sts)
beginning w/ a purl row, work 21 rows stockinette st
next row: k13, m1, k7, m1, k12 (34 sts)
next row: purl
next row: k14, m1, k7, m1, k13 (36 sts)
next row: purl
next row: k15, m1, k7, m1, k14 (38 sts)
next row: purl
next row: k16, m1, k7, m1, k15 (40 sts)
next row: purl
next row: knit
next row: BO 16 sts, purl (24 sts)
next row: BO 17 sts, knit (7 sts)
work 13 rows stockinette st
next row: BO 7 sts
cut yarn, leaving long tail for seaming

Arms (make 2)
using size 4 dpns and black:
CO 18 sts
row 1: [k3, m1] rep (24 sts)
row 2: purl
row 3: knit
row 4: purl
row 5: [k4, m1] rep (30 sts)
row 6: purl
row 7: [k6, m1] rep (35 sts)
row 8: purl
row 9: knit
row 10: purl
row 11: [k5, k2tog] rep (30 sts)
row 12: purl
row 13: [k1, k2tog] rep (20 sts)
row 14: purl
row 15: [k2, k2tog] rep (15 sts)
row 16: purl
row 17: [k3, k2tog] rep (12 sts)
row 18: purl
row 19: [k3, m1] 3 times, k3 (15 sts)
row 20: purl
row 21: [k2, m1] 3 times, k3, m1, k2, [m1, k2] 2 times (21 sts)
row 22: purl
row 23: [k7, m1] rep (24 sts)
row 24: purl
row 25: [k2, k2tog] rep (18 sts)
row 26: purl
row 27: [k1, k2tog] rep (12 sts)
row 28: purl
row 29: [k2tog] rep (6 sts)
row 30: purl

switch to grey for claw, leaving a long black tail for seaming
row 31: k2, m1, k1 - slide rest of sts onto st holder (4 active sts)
row 32: purl
row 33: k1, m1, k2, m1, k1 (6 sts)
row 34: purl
row 35: knit
row 36: purl
row 37: knit
row 38: purl
row 39: knit
row 40: purl
row 41: knit
row 42: purl 3
fold 6 sts in half and graft them together
cut yarn, and sew sides of work to form a long skinny pocket

retrieve the 3 sts from the holder, and work the other half of the claw beginning at row 31

Head:
using size 6 and grey yarn
CO 15 sts
work 15 rows stockinette st
next row: CO 14 sts, purl row (29 sts)
next row: CO 14 sts, knit row (43 sts)
beginning w/ a purl row, work 10 rows stockinette st
next row: BO 14 sts, purl row (29 sts)
next row: BO 14 sts, knit row (15 sts)

(begin face design, using intarsia)
row 1: p2, p design row, p2
row 2: k2, k design row, k2
alternate these rows until end of face pattern, ending on a purl row

next row: knit
next row: BO 15 sts
cut yarn, leaving long tail for seaming

Antenna
using knitting knobby (or if you’ve got size 2 needles lying around)
CO 4 sts
work 10 rows of i-cord
BO 4 sts, cut yarn, leaving a short tail

if you don’t have those, on size 6 needles
CO 8 sts
work 1 row
BO 8 sts, cut yarn, leaving a short tail

Finishing
the Body
Use a yarn needle and the long tail to sew around the bottom and up the back of the body. If you wish, you may employ several pipe cleaners to form a boxlike skeleton to encourage a boxier shape. I measured and cut the pipe cleaners to twice the dimensions needed and twisted them together to make a stronger structure. It is good to fold the ends over about half an inch so the pointy wires don’t poke through the finished body. Insert the skeleton into the body. (I made a similar box for the head. I was going to make them for the legs – but the process is a bit tedious; I got lazy.) Stuff with polyfill.

the Head
Using the tails from the cast on and bind off rows, sew the corner seams on the head. Poke the two ends from the antennae (if you made i-cord, thread one tail through the center of the cord to the other end) through the top of the head, and tie it firmly in place. Insert a pipe cleaner skull if it so pleases you, and stuff with fiberfill. Sew the head to the flap on the top of the body, and sew the top of the body shut.

the Legs
Each leg is basically a long rectangular box with a triangular protrusion at the bottom to represent a foot. You knit them from the bottom (the sole) to the top. Using the cast on tail or another length of grey yarn, sew around the bottom of the sole, and up the back of each leg (the seam should be near the middle of the back of the leg). Stuff with polyfill, and attach it to the bottom of the body with the tail from the bind off. Repeat same procedure for the other leg. (Hint: look at the legs on my robot. That’s what we call “slightly overstuffed.” You may not like this look. I’m not crazy about it either.)

the Arms and Claws
So you’ve already made the skinny little pockets for the claws. This is where the pipe cleaners are not optional. Measure the pipe cleaner against a claw, bending and cutting it so that there’s a little extra length on both ends. Fold the extra length at each end over so the wire can’t easily poke through your knitting. Insert the pipe cleaner claw into the yarn claw, and use a grey yarn tail to close up any gaps in the middle of the bend. Repeat this on the other arm. Using the black tail near the claw, sew the seam up the length of each arm. Sew each arm to the body using the black yarn, so that the seam faces downward and the arm is about level with the chest buttons.

and Finally
Poke in the ends and show all your friends.







Face Design: (the o’s are grey, the x’s are black)
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O
O O O O X X O O O X X O O O O
O O O O X X O O O X X O O O O
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O
O O O O X X X X X X X O O O O
O O O X O X O X O X O X O O O
O O O X O X O X O X O X O O O
O O O X X X X X X X X X O O O
O O O X O X O X O X O X O O O
O O X O O X O X O X O O X O O
O O X X X X X X X X X X X O O
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O


Chest Buttons: (same color scheme as head, r’s = red, b’s = blue, y’s = yellow)
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X O O O O O O O O O O O O O O X
X O R R O R R O O Y O Y O Y O X
X O R R O R R O O O O O O O O X
X O O O O O O O O Y O Y O Y O X
X O B B B B B O O O O O O O O X
X O B B B B B O O Y O Y O Y O X
X O O O O O O O O O O O O O O X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X